Last week on the blog Kristiann told us a bit about Victory Patterns – the indie sewing pattern company that she owns and designs for. I asked Kristiann for some tips on working with delicate fabrics and I thought they were so great, and detailed, that they deserved their own space in the limelight…
A couple of your patterns such as the Hazel dress and the Roxanne blouse call for lightweight fabrics, which can be difficult to work with. What are some tips for beginners working with these slippery fabrics?
There’s lots of tip for working with this kind of fabric, from cutting, handling, to the kind of tools you use. The small stuff counts! Be patient and you’ll find that it will all feel better in time! Here’s a few things you can do…
Cutting:
When cutting out your fabric, lay the fabric onto a sheet or onto tissue paper. This helps to keep the fabric from slipping around while you cut. Use fine pins or weights such as soup cans. Use very sharp scissors or a rotary cutter.
When cutting, handle the fabric as little as possible. Work around your pieces and avoid moving the fabric to work around you. Also, don’t lift the fabric off the cutting surface. Moving the fabric after it has been carefully laid cause it to shift and could result in a wonky cutting job.
Always test with two layers of scrap fabric prior to starting the project so you can get used to the hand of the fabric. Make sure that your stitch settings and tension is adjusted for your fabric.
Sewing tips:
Thread and needle: Sew with good quality thread and a thin gauge needle. A needle size of 60/8, 65/9 or 70/10 is suitable. The lower the number the finer the gauge of the needle. Also, If you’ve been sewing with the same needle for a while, it might be a good idea to start with a fresh one so that the tip is sharp. This will help to eliminate puckering and snagging caused by and dull needle.
Backstitching: Hold the threads as you backstitch at the beginning of a stitch. This helps to avoid a messy backstitch and prevents the fabric from getting sucked into the feed, which can easily happen with lighter weights.
Handling:
-I find that the way to handle lightweight fabric is to hold the fabric taut so that one hand is holding the fabric just behind the needle, and the other is in font guiding the fabric into the machine. By pulling the fabric taut, you are creating rigidity along the fabric surface, which prevents it from slipping.
Pull just enough to create a rigid tension on the fabric, but not so match that you’re going to affect the way it feeds through the machine. Doing so will affect your stitch, and make them inconsistent.
-Make sure fabric edges are aligned. Because the fabric is more slippery, this is something you have to pay attention to. If you want to take extra measure, hand-baste prior to sewing the seam together. This can be don in place of pins to prevent the fabric from stretching and distorting as you sew.
-To prevent slippage, you can sew with a strip of tissue paper along the seam, tissue facing the feed dog side. Once the seam is sewn, tear off the tissue. You can also use a stabilizer along the seam edge, such as a spray on starch. This will help you to manage the fabric during construction.
-You can use a straight stitch throat plate which has small needle entry hole. This prevents the fabric from getting sucked into the needle hole.
Good ideas – thank you!
del
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You should thank kristiann! She is so generous with her sewing know how!
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Thanks to you both for making time for these good ideas to be presented online!
del
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Great tips. I’m currently sewing voile which is lightweight but he cotton seems to make it a little easier to sew, but chiffon – well that still has me beat!
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I remember just of a year ago I ambitiously attempted a chiffon flowy blouse. I got no further than *attempting* to pin the pattern. Holy moly it was a tense time. Luckily I abandoned that project!
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I can certainly use all of those tips! Thanks for sharing and will certainly put all of them into practice.
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That’s all good! I’m glad you found them useful!
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Thanks for posting this, I’m just about to sew up a silk dress so these tips are very timely and useful!
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Ohhhh have you got a link to the finished product? Can I see your creation?
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Hi there,
as soon as it’s finished I’ll let you know. Thanks for the interest!
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These are such great tips, thanks for the guest posting!
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They are right? Kristiann is lovely!
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Thanks for this! I just purchased the Hazel and I love it!! I have not sewn it yet, but read through the instructions and they look so thorough. And, the pic of the dress is too adorable, can’t wait to sew it.
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The hazel is gorgeous! Have you finished it yet? Do you have a link? 🙂
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Oh, not finished no. Actually not yet begun, lol. But I do have the lower section fabric picked out, a floral with s black background so need to find a coordinating fabric. I’ll let you know when it’s up and running. 🙂
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The needle sizing was very helpful. Thanks for sharing the interview.
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Yes needle size is definitely something I need to ate more notice of too!
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Thanks for sharing!
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That’s all good x
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Great tips! Thanks for sharing! 🙂
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I’m glad you found them helpful!
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